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FUTABA EN

Histry

Edo dyeing from which craftsmen created a unique culture

江戸庶民が芸術の域まで押し上げた伝統の染色技術

Development of techniques
Dyeing further developed in the Edo era. The center of political economy shifted to Edo, and at the time of peace, both samurai and ordinary people came to enjoy living and culture.
Since the technique of "dye-proof paste" (a method to prevent dyeing with paste) was developed, craftsmen were able to express fine patterns such as fine lines like threads.
As the merchant culture in Edo grew gorgeous, craftsmen in Edo began to challenge various techniques.
Pattern dyeing spread as a technique to engrave a pattern that matches the design to dye, so that dye craftsmen can dye reasonably even designs. Variations expanded by combining many patterns, and many people came to enjoy the clothing culture called kimono.

Blooming of the merchant culture
The Edo Shogunate enacted a law to prohibit luxury to merchants as well. The culture was controlled by limiting the colors to use for clothing.
However, craftsmen in Edo were strong. By fully utilizing brown and grey colors that were not prohibited, they expressed various worlds.
As cotton plantation grew, clothing with indigo dyeing became common since indigo is easy to dye cottons. "Konya-machi (dyers' town)" appeared in various places of Japan, where craftsmen for indigo dyeing and merchants for dyed goods gathered. Konya-machi, in Kanda, Edo was a center of Edo dyeing in those days, and was described in ukiyoe by Hiroshige Ando and Hokusai Katsushika.

Satisfying the people of taste
As merchants enjoy their lives, more people wanted to enjoy the fashion.
To respond to the desire of these people, craftsmen in Edo pursued innovation. "Edo Komon" and "Edo Sarasa" can be called as the "spirit of craftsmen" who polished their techniques.

Ochiai, Shinjuku succeeding the tradition as the growing center of Edo dyeing

Craftsmen's moving
In Meiji and Taisho eras, dye craftsman in Kanda Konya-machi gathered in "Ochiai, Shinjuku" to pursue cleaner water.
The name Ochiai is derived from a "place where the Kanda River and Myosenji River meet." It was a land with abundant water and suitable for dyeing.
In addition to dye craftsmen, craftsmen in related industries such as "Yunoshiya" who stretches lines on a fabric with steam moved in. Ochiai became the growing center of Edo dyeing. At its peak, it prospered with more than 300 dyers.

To the future of dyeing
As clothing for Japanese people shifts to Western style, the number of dye craftsmen in "Ochiai, Shinjuku" as the growing center gradually decreased. There are approximately 10 companies at present. However, they succeeded the techniques and spirits of Edo dyeing, and have been taking on new challenges while protecting the tradition.
Edo dyeing is a world-class technique. Various goods have been developed, including not only kimono, but also small articles and interiors. Edo dyeing is expanding a new world as a material that can be dispatched to the world.